Minestra di Pasta e Piselli (Pasta and Pea Soup)

Rain. It's been happening a lot lately. It literally puts a damper on summer fun, but there's a way to make the best of it. I always find myself craving soup even when it's not winter. Summer is usually reserved for light and fresh soups, sometimes cold ones, featuring seasonal produce. Even when it's hot, soup can find it's way into your meal plan if you play your cards right.

Right now, fresh peas are on their way out, but it's not too late to find some (I did)! And if all else fails, frozen peas work in a pinch. I use them year round, but was really excited for the opportunity to make my rainy day soup with fresh peas this time around.

I had been eyeing a particular soup in The Glorious Pasta of Italy by Domenica Marchetti ever since I reviewed her cookbook a couple years ago. A blogger friend of mine (Megan at Delicious Dishings) had featured it as well when she reviewed the book and I quickly added it to my list to try at some point.

Soup seasons came and went, and for whatever reason it took this long for me to try it (did I mention I own HUNDREDS of cookbooks which I often feel I'm neglecting? I need to be a better cookbook parent and give them all their fair attention--I'm trying!). With a series of storms in the region and the availability of fresh peas, I was ready to rock and roll.

A trip to Trader Joe's later, I had discovered some organic vegetable radiatore pasta which, although larger than the pasta typically used in here, would be a colorful and welcome addition to this soup. And since my pasta was a bit larger than ditalini or shall shells, I decided to measure it by weight instead of volume because it would take up more room in a measuring cup.

Oh and P.S., Trader Joe's also had pancetta already diced up and sold in a perfect little 4 ounce container. I'm saving the other 2 ounces in the freezer for later :)

This soup is perfect for a quick soup craving. It takes very little time to cook and is full of fantastic flavors! Between the meaty pancetta, tender onion, fresh herbs, sweet green pearls still reminiscent of spring, slight bite from the pasta, and nutty and salty cheese which adds an unctuous mouthfeel to the light broth, this soup packs a punch for minimal effort.

Minestra di Pasta e Piselli
Serves 4
(From The Glorious Pasta of Italy)

1 tbsp unsalted butter (I omitted this)
1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil (I scaled this back to about 1 teaspoon)
1 cup finely chopped white onion
2 ounces pancetta, cut into small dice
1/2 tsp minced fresh marjoram or thyme (I used fresh rosemary)
Freshly ground black pepper
6 to 7 cups chicken broth or stock
1 small piece rind from wedge of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese (optional), plus 1 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
1 1/2 to 1 3/4 cups (170 to 215 g) tubetti, ditalini, small shells or other small pasta shape (I used vegetable radiatore)
1 1/2 cups fresh or frozen peas
Kosher or fine sea salt (optional)

Warm the butter and olive oil in a Dutch oven or other heavy-bottomed pot placed over medium heat. When the butter is melted, add the onion and pancetta, stirring to coat them thoroughly. Saute for five minutes, reducing the heat to medium-low if needed to prevent the onion from burning. Sprinkle in the marjoram and a generous grind of pepper and continue to saute for another five minutes, or until the onion is translucent and the pancetta has just begun to crisp but is still mostly tender.

Pour in six cups of the broth; raise the heat to medium-high to boil. Toss in the Parmigiano rind (if using). Stir in the pasta and peas, using 1 1/2 cups for a soupier soup and 1 3/4 cups for a thicker soup. Cook until al dente (the cooking time will depend on the brand and shape). Add a splash of broth if the soup seems too thick.

Remove the soup from the heat and stir in 1/2 cup of the Parmigiano. Taste and add salt and additional pepper, if you like. Ladle into warmed shallow bowls and sprinkle with the remaining cheese. Serve immediately.

Half Way Tree: A Taste of Jamaica in the Heart of Providence

I love everything about the Caribbean. I love traveling there, whether it's on a cruise ship or dry land, I love the various cultures from island to island, and perhaps most of all I love the food and drinks! One of the most famous Caribbean cuisines is Jamaican (closely matched with Cuban and Puerto Rican).

Most people in the Western World are familiar with Jerk chicken, at least in theory. I have done some Caribbean cooking in my own kitchen on a few occasions, but never shared a recipe for Jerk anything even though I've tried it out a couple times. I wanted to perfect it before sharing it myself.

Until that day comes, I do have an exciting Jamaican culinary discovery to share. I found it in Providence, Rhode Island and it goes by the name Half Way Tree. The name refers to a spot in Kingston, Jamaica where  uptown meets downtown and a huge cotton tree grew until 1866. The Half Way Tree clock tower is prominently featured in the restaurant's logo. The restaurant opened in January 2013 and has since been serving up mouthwatering authentic Jamaican cuisine to Rhode Islanders and additionally has been hosting late night Reggae events on the weekends.

Head chef Shatte Max hails from the Jerk capital of the world, Portland, Jamaica. Jerk chicken and jerk chicken wings (baked, not fried) are a feature on the menu, along with many other traditional Jamaican delights, such as oxtail, curry goat, chicken curry, and brown stew chicken, among others. Depending on the day of the week, there are great specials as well! For example, we stopped in on a Friday afternoon and partook of "Festival Fridays" which offer a free order of festivals (fried fritters) or two free rum punches when ordering two large plates. What a great deal!

We tried the Jerk chicken (of course) as one of our large plates. All the plates comes with a side of rice and peas (red beans), a couple slices of fried plantains, and veggies (generally cabbage, I believe). The chicken is grilled so it's perhaps the lightest item on the menu.

Large Jerk Chicken Plate $11

It is succulent and moist with great flavor from the Jerk sauce. An extra tub of Jerk sauce is served on the side, but beware it is extremely spicy so start slow before jumping right in. This is a definite highlight of the menu and a huge reason to return. I only got a small taste of my dining companion's dish, but it was wonderful and I'd happily order my own plate on a future visit.

Large Brown Stew Chicken Plate $11

Additionally, we tried the brown stew chicken, which the waitress heartily recommended. It consists of small pieces of meltingly tender dark-meat chicken braised to perfection in a spiced sauce. While it is not as spicy as the jerk sauce, there is a nice background heat to it. The chicken itself is insane. It was so juicy and flavorful, I thought I died and went to Jamaica!

With a name like "brown stew chicken" it can be easy to pass it up for something else, but I followed my waitress's advice and would never look back. This chicken is perfection. It is what I will forever crave on a rainy day. Although I am very tempted to get my own plate of Jerk chicken on my next visit, or try something else on the menu, such as the oxtail, it will be a challenge to resist more of this brown stew chicken in the future. Absolutely phenomenal.

Fall-off-the-bone tender meat!

If a trip to Jamaica seems a bit far-fetched, a visit to Half Way Tree will at least get your stomach in the right place (at a great price!). I definitely recommend it to anyone in the area who is craving authentic Jamaican food in a vibrant atmosphere decked out in black, green, and gold.

Half Way Tree Authentic Jamaican Cuisine
44 Hospital Street
Providence, RI 02903
(401) 419-6358
halfwaytreeri.com

Olive and Garlic Soft Pretzels with Feta Cheese

One of my most popular posts of all time on Mission: Food is the recipe for Homemade Soft Pretzels. It's also easily one of my favorites because it resulted in some of the best soft pretzels I've had, which were also super easy and straightforward to make.

I have had my share of disappointing soft pretzels from street vendors in New York City (usually stale and dry), and making them myself is definitely the way to go. I also recently fell in LOVE with the pretzel bread at Le Cellier at Disney World, which revolutionized my view on eating pretzels... with BUTTER! Who knew?!

Apparently slathering butter on pretzels is common practice in Germany, where pretzels as we know them became popular and the standard "bread," just as baguettes are in France. Also, apparently the shape of pretzels derived from religious symbolism and was meant to depict a child's arms crossed over his chest in prayer (as they did back in the day).  It's also believed that the 3 openings in a standard pretzel represent the Holy Trinity.

Although there are some mixed stories about how pretzels were introduced to the world and how they developed into modern day versions of themselves, all of this fascinating information is found in the newly released cookbook Pretzel Making at Home by Andrea Slonecker. I thought I knew pretzels until I read this book, and then discovered there is so much untapped information (and variations) on pretzels that I'm only now discovering.

From classic recipes for soft and hard pretzels, to flavor variations for the dough, topping suggestions, and a dozen different shapes to try out, this book starts off on the right foot for anyone wishing to explore pretzels outside of the heated plexiglass case in which they are commonly found in most of America.

Furthermore, a myriad of other recipes infusing pretzels into never-before-scene scenarios definitely rounds out this single-subject book into one that's worth picking up (and the price tag is very reasonable at $16.95 retail--about $12 on Amazon at the moment). Recipes like Pretzel Croissants, Philly Cheesesteak Pretzel Pockets, Pretzel Bread Pudding with Salted Caramel Sauce, Pretzel-Dusted Calamari with Mustard Aioli and Pretzel Ice Cream definitely think outside of the pretzel box.

A chapter dedicated to sauces and dips is a great finishing touch, and includes condiments such as Sweet Bavarian Mustard, Apricot-Riesling Mustard, Beer Cheese Fondue, and homemade Nacho Cheese, among many others. I love both mustard and cheese with my pretzels, but have also jumped on the cold-butter-melting-on-warm-soft-pretzels bandwagon. It's worth a try! Trust me!

Although there were a lot of recipes to choose from, I decided to start fairly basic by simply making soft pretzels instead of one of the more elaborate recipes. I did decide, however, to spice it up a bit and try one of the creative variations for olive and garlic pretzel dough.

I also decided to try two different shapes with the dough. Half of the dough would be used to make Philadelphia style pretzels, while the other half would make the traditional Swabian shape, which differs from the New York style by featuring a fat "belly" and tapered, crispy "arms."

My "arms" didn't turn out as thin and crispy as they should have been (need to taper them more next time), but at least I got the "belly" part down! I also decided to top half the pretzels with crumbled feta cheese, and leave the other half plain.

Slonecker recommends making your pretzel dough a day in advance so it matures slowly in the refrigerator overnight and develops more flavor. She offers a quick pretzel alternative for anyone who didn't plan in advance, although the flavor will not develop as much.

These pretzels turned out fantastic! They were soft and chewy with beautifully developed flavor. My Philadelphia-born brother-in-law gave them a solid two thumbs up, while my best friend claimed they were the best pretzels she has ever had. Pretty high marks! I will steadfastly return to this recipe (and others in the book) for future pretzel-making needs (and let me tell you, you NEED to try these pretzels).

The recipe seems long, but only because it's thoroughly instructive. It's really not challenging and the results speak for themselves! Delicious!! I also think it would be really fun to make homemade pretzels with kids (especially the rolling/shaping part) and plan to make some more soon with my 4 1/2 year old nephew who loves pretzels and has shown interest in helping me in the kitchen.

Olive and Garlic Soft Pretzels with Feta Cheese
Makes 8
(From Pretzel Making at Home)

One 1/4-oz/7-g package active dry yeast (2 1/4 tsp)
1/2 cup/120 ml warm water (between 100 and 115°F/38 and 45°C)
1 tablespoon barley malt syrup or 1 tbsp firmly packed dark brown sugar
3-1/4 cups/420 g unbleached bread flour
1/3 cup/75 ml cold pilsner-style beer
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cubed, at room temperature, plus more for greasing the bowl
2 teaspoons fine sea salt, such as fleur de sel or sel gris
1/2 cup/100 g well-drained, pitted and roughly chopped kalamata olives
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme
2 tablespoons food-grade lye, or 1/4 cup/60 g baked baking soda (see below)
1 cup/150 g crumbled feta cheese

Sprinkle the yeast over the warm water in the bowl of a stand mixer or in a large bowl. Add the barley malt syrup, stirring until it is dissolved. Allow the yeast to bloom until it is foamy, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the flour, butter, and fine sea salt and stir to form a shaggy mass. Add the olives, garlic, and thyme. Attach the bowl and the dough hook to the stand mixer and begin kneading on medium-low speed. After about 1 minute the dough will form a smooth ball. The dough should be quite firm and may be slightly tacky, but not sticky. (If it is sticky, add a little more flour, about 1 tablespoon at a time, and knead it in until the dough is smooth. If the dough is too dry to come together, add more water, 1 tablespoon at a time.) Continue kneading the dough on medium-low speed until it is elastic, 5 to 7 minutes. Alternatively, turn the shaggy dough out onto an unfloured work surface and knead it by hand.

Choose a bowl that will be large enough to contain the dough after it has doubled in size, and lightly grease it with butter. Transfer the dough to the greased bowl and cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap. Put the dough in the refrigerator to rise for at least 8 hours, and up to 24 hours, for optimal flavor.

For quick pretzels, allow the dough to rise at room temperature (in a warm spot) until it has doubled in size, about 1 1/2 hours.

Line two 12-by-17-in/30.5-by-43-cm rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper; set aside.

Turn the dough out onto an unfloured work surface and press it down to deflate. To form the classic pretzel shape, cut it into eight equal portions. Work with one piece of dough at a time and keep the rest covered with a damp, clean kitchen towel. Pat a piece of dough down with your fingertips to form a rough rectangle about 3 1/2-by-5 1/2-inches. Beginning on a long side, roll it up tightly, forming it into a little loaf. Pinch the seam together. Shape the dough into a rope by rolling it against the work surface with your palms and applying mild pressure, working form the center of the dough out to the ends. If you need more friction, spray the counter with a little water from a squirt bottle or drizzle a few drops of water and spread it with your hand. Once you can feel the dough rope doesn't want to stretch any farther (usually when it is between 12 and 16 inches), set it aside to rest and begin shaping another piece in the same manner. Repeat this process with the remaining pieces of dough.

Return to the first dough rope and continue rolling it out to a length of 24 to 28 inches leaving the center about 1 inch in diameter and tapering the ends thinly by applying a little more pressure as you work your way out. Position the dough rope into a U shape, with the ends pointing away from you. Holding an end in each hand, cross the ends about 3 inches from the tips and then cross them again. Fold the ends down and press them into the U at about 4 and 8 o’clock, allowing about 1⁄4 inch of the ends to overhang. Place the pretzel on one of the prepared baking sheets and cover it with a damp towel. Repeat this process with the remaining dough, arranging the pretzels at least 1 inch apart and covering them with a damp towel.

Alternatively, to make Philadelphia style pretzels, shape each portion into a 26 inch rope, applying even pressure as your roll from the center and avoid tapering the ends. Shape the pretzel into the classic pretzel shape, but attach the ends of the rope to the U at 3 and 9 o'clock. Pull the sides of each pretzel out to elongate the pretzel into an oval shape resembling an infinity sign.

Allow the covered pretzels to rise at warm room temperature until they have increased in size by about half, 20 to 30 minutes. The pretzels can be refrigerated at this point, covered tightly with plastic wrap, for up to 8 hours before dipping and baking them.

At least 20 minutes before baking, position one rack in the upper third and another rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat it to 500°F/260°C/gas 10.

Use the lye solution or baked baking soda solution (see below). Use a large skimmer to gently dip the pretzels in the lye or baked baking soda solution, one or two at a time. Leave them in the solution for about 20 seconds, carefully turning them once after 10 seconds. Remove the pretzels from the liquid, drain, and return them to the baking sheets, spacing them at least 1 inch apart (if making Philadelphia style pretzels, arrange a chain of four pretzels on each baking sheet so they are touching). If the ends become detached, simply reposition them. Repeat with the remaining pretzels.

Use a sharp paring knife or razor blade to cut a slit about 1/4 inch deep in the thickest part of each pretzel (skip this step for Philadelphia style pretzels). If using baked baking soda solution, brush pretzels with egg wash (see below). Top pretzels with crumbled feta.

Bake the pretzels  until they are deep mahogany in color, 8 to 12 minutes, rotating the pans from front to back and top to bottom halfway through the baking time. Transfer the pretzels to a rack to cool for 10 minutes before serving. The pretzels are best enjoyed the day they are made, ideally warm from the oven or withing an hour of being baked.

To store the pretzels, allow them to cool completely and then wrap each one individually in plastic wrap. Store them at room temperature for up to 2 days, or put the plastic-wrapped pretzels in a resealable plastic freezer bag and freeze them for up to 1 month. Reheat the pretzels in a 350°F/180°C/gas 4 oven for about 5 minutes, or for 10 to 12 minutes if frozen.

Dipping Pretzels in an Alkaline Solution

Lye method

Before you begin working with lye, there are a few precautions to take, since it is a hazardous chemical when it’s not handled properly. Always wear rubber household gloves that cover your forearms, as it will irritate your skin. Be extremely careful not to let lye water splash on you, and avoid touching the dipped pretzels with bare hands until after they are baked. Also, consider wearing protective eyewear. Make the solution in a well-ventilated room, have the stove’s hood vent on high power, and avoid hovering directly over the pot if there is any residual steam. Protective eyewear will also shield your eyes from steam that may irritate them when you open the oven door while the pretzels are baking. Or you can simply open the door and let the steam escape before leaning in, which is what I do. While all this sounds a little dangerous for a home kitchen, I’ve found that with these simple precautions, dipping pretzels in a lye solution is a safe and worthwhile endeavor that makes a huge difference in the authenticity of your pretzels.

To get a crust with a deeply browned, lacquered appearance, the lye must be hot when the pretzels are dipped. You can prepare a cool lye bath by dissolving the lye in lukewarm water straight from the tap, without heating it, but the pretzels will emerge from the oven with a lighter caramel hue.

To make the lye solution for soft pretzels: Select a large stainless-steel pot at least a fingers length greater in diameter than the width of the pretzels and tall enough so that the water comes up no more than 2 in/5 cm from the rim. Fill the pot with 6 cups/1.4 L of water. Wearing rubber gloves, add the lye, 1 tbsp at a time. With the hood vent on, warm the lye solution over high heat just until you see wisps of steam, and then remove the pot from the heat and cool the water until the steam subsides, about 5 minutes.

Baked baking soda method

An alternative to working with lye is to dip pretzels in a simmering baked baking soda solution, which will give you a result that is close to the dark, burnished crust that lye imparts. If you prefer to avoid working with lye, or just don’t have time to source it, use this method.

To make the baked baking soda solution: First, you must bake the baking soda. This step should be done while the pretzels are undergoing their first rise, if not earlier. Preheat the oven to 250°F/120°C/gas 1/2. For one batch of pretzels, spread out 1/4 cup/70 g of baking soda on an aluminum pie pan or a small rimmed baking sheet covered with aluminum foil. Bake the baking soda for 1 hour. The baking soda will lose weight as it bakes but maintains about the same volume, so you should end up with about 1/4 cup/60 g of baked baking soda. Allow it to cool completely, and then keep it in an airtight container at room temperature until you are ready to make pretzels. (If you see more than one batch of pretzels in your future, consider baking a whole box of baking soda in one shot, since it keeps indefinitely. Sift baked baking soda before using, as it cakes after prolonged storage.) Select a large stainless-steel pot and fill it with 8 cups/2 L of water. Be sure to choose a pot that is at least a finger’s length wider than the diameter of the pretzels and tall enough so that the water comes up no more than 2 in/5 cm from the rim. (Avoid other metal surfaces, such as aluminum and copper, and nonstick surfaces, which may react with the baked baking soda.) Pour in the 1/4 cup/60 g of baked baking soda, and bring the liquid to a simmer over medium-high heat. Once the baking soda dissolves, reduce the heat to medium to maintain a gentle simmer. Before baking, brush the tops of the pretzels lightly with an egg wash of 1 egg yolk, beaten with 1 tbsp of water. This will give them a glossy finish.

*Disclaimer* I received no compensation to write this review other than a free copy of the book. My opinions are always my own.

The Modern: A Culinary Work of Art

There are few meals that truly stand out in the life of a gastronome. I can probably count the most unforgettable ones on one hand. They usually come with Michelin Stars and other outstanding achievements in tow. I am a very lucky girl. I've experienced quite a few of these extraordinary meals, and I'm ready to add another to my list.

Remarkably, it is found at one of my favorite museums, the Museum of Modern Art in New York City. The restaurant I speak of is none other than The Modern, another notch on Danny Meyer's belt, this one featuring the incredible cuisine of Executive Chef Gabriel Kreuther.

Overlooking the MoMA's stunning sculpture garden is the Dining Room, which features floor-to-ceiling windows, classic clean lines, sparsely placed tall bouquets of bright flowers, contemporary furnishings, and a fairly elaborate prix fixe menu.

Adjacent but separated by a wall is the Bar Room which is a more boisterous environment with casual, yet posh, seating and an approachable a la carte menu.

For this particular occasion, my friend and I secured reservations for the Dining Room for lunch. She elected to dine on 2 courses and dessert (priced at $55), while I selected the 3 courses and dessert option (priced at $70). As with restaurants of this caliber, in addition to the courses selected from the prix fixe menu, there are always a few additional bites offered throughout the meal.

Our meal started off with such, a couple small canapés served on decorative silver spoons, a nice change from the typical Asian soup spoon serving of similar bites.

A pickled raspberry with foie gras mousseline and rye crumble was the first bite we tried. The sweet and tart berry was complimented nicely with the creamy and mild decadence of the foie gras. Freshness and richness were both elegantly represented in this single bite.

Additionally, we were also served white wine-poached octopus with spiced yogurt, jicama, and candied grapefruit. The octopus was incredibly tender and delicate. We were equally impressed by this prelude to our meal.

Next we were served the bread course, which was presented in a glass bowl with a slanted opening--very modern. Three varieties of tiny bâtards including French, cranberry-pecan, and olive filled the cavity, while two small slabs of marble were each topped with soft butter in two varieties: cow's milk from Vermont and Goat's milk from California.

Both were incredibly fresh and high quality, the goat paler with a slight tang. I would have loved a sprinkle of sea salt atop each, but otherwise loved both of them paired with the crusty, miniature breads.

An amuse bouche of smoked trout with pickled quail egg and spring greens emulsion was a perfect little bite. The trout was delicately matched with the tender egg and bright green sauce. A few orbs of salmon roe were a final garnish.

For my first course I selected a cold appetizer: rabbit terrine with gewürztraminer, anise, and fines herbes coulis, presented with a poached quail egg, smoked rabbit loin, and rabbit pâté. The dish was colorful, but beautifully restrained.

Each component on the dish was lovely on its own, but complimented the rest of the dish nicely as well. The poached quail egg offered a bit of luscious yolk that any egg lover lives for, while the tender rabbit loin, although small, added a layer of complexity from the smoke.

Meanwhile, the star of the dish--the terrine--featured tender rabbit meat encapsulated with aspic into a perfect rectangle and cloaked in a delicious coulis utilizing one of my favorite (but often overlooked) white wines, gewürztraminer. There was a great acidic element to this sauce which was really refreshing.

Finally, I washed it all down with rabbit pâté sandwiched between a few small round root chips. Pâté is easily one of my favorite contributions from the French to the culinary world. It's so decadent, but as presented here not overwhelming at all. This was an exceptional dish in my opinion for anyone who appreciates charcuterie.

My dining companion started with the munster-brie "soufflé," topped with almond crumble and served tableside with heirloom carrot consommé. The "soufflé" is gently baked in a ring, which allows it to be served in this manner. It's less soufflé-like and more mousse-like in my opinion with just enough cheesy flavor without becoming too rich. It's served warm, while the consommé is cooler and has a bit of a kick with a bit of acid. We both loved this dish.

For my extra course I selected the slow-poached farm egg with black winter truffle, salsify, squid ink spaetzle, and uni. I'm a sucker for runny egg yolk and although I was tempted to try another dish containing rabbit for this course (did I mention I'm also a sucker for rabbit?), I couldn't help myself.

The egg was deliciously runny, cloaked in a sauce studded with specks of truffle. Together with the chewy black squid ink spaetzle, tender strips of salsify, meaty trumpet mushrooms, crisp bread crumbs, and delicate uni, the variety of textures (and colors) in this dish creates a perfect balance.

Onto the main event, I must say that my selection was one of my favorite dishes anywhere ever. It's on par with my love for the pounded yellowfin tuna with foie gras at Le Bernardin. The dish I speak of is the maple-brined Berkshire pork tenderloin, which my dining companion recommended from a previous visit. It's topped with crushed walnuts and served over a small mound of butternut squash puree with a whole grain mustard jus (served tableside). Additionally, Mangalica lardo, fennel pollen crisps, and cippolini onions mark the opposite side of the plate.

Let's start with the pork tenderloin. It's out of this world. Cooked perfectly pink and incredibly tender, the nutty accent of crunchy walnuts over the top is a perfect match. In fact, I can see myself stealing this idea!

Together with the sweet and creamy butternut squash, and the dark, rich, but mildly mustardy jus, each bite of pork was a trip to Heaven. Spectacular. Probably the best pork dish I've ever had in my life. And yes, it somehow exceeds my love for all pork barbecue.

Across from the tenderloin was a perfect cube of delicious, tender cholesterol. The melt-in-your-mouth nugget of unctuous lardo was incredibly decadent, but still scaled back in size enough that you don't hate yourself after eating it. Along with thin fennel pollen crisps, and sweet and mustardy cippolini onions, the dish is as delicious as it is beautiful.

My dining companion selected the chorizo-crusted cod for her entreé. It featured a white coco bean purée and harissa oil. Chorizo barely veils the cod, creating a restrained piece of fish with just enough salt and flavor without taking over its delicate sensibilities. The beans on the plate were just al dente, giving the dish some additional texture. Whereas foam can seem overdone these days, on this dish it worked nicely, making this a wonderful option for any fish-lover.

The fun continued with our dessert courses. In addition to the two selections we had made, our wonderful captain Nop Smerasuta brought us an extra dessert to try. I must say, I was very very impressed by all three desserts we sampled. Here are some specifics...

Manjari chocolate palet with Tahitian vanilla crémeux and salted butter-caramel ice cream: Although I couldn't really identify where the crémeux came into play, essentially this palet is the greatest, creamiest, most decadent and delicious candy bar of which you could ever dream.

The chocolate inside is so silky and smooth, topped with an equally smooth ganache and lots of beautiful garnishes. It's cut on the bias to showcase its interior, along with a quenelle of ice cream in between. The ice cream doesn't scream with the flavors of salted caramel as it advertises. It's really quite mild, but nice in contrast to the decadence of the palet. It's a work of art both inside and out, a chocoholic's ultimate indulgence.

Milk chocolate and hazelnut dacquoise: Another extraordinary chocolate creation, crisp nutty meringue layers are cloaked in delicious, creamy chocolate. Its presentation is minimalist compared to the other two desserts, with a few simple coulis-filled raspberry halves leading up to a quenelle of raspberry sorbet.

The colors are as stunning as the flavor within. This is a popular dessert choice and I can definitely see why. I would be challenged in the future picking my favorite for a repeat performance.

Caramel parfait: This was the surprise dessert we got to try, and it was a masterpiece. I'm so glad Nop shared this with us! It was truly unexpected. A mango ravioli was created with a thin mango skin wrapped around a passion fruit cream filling. It seemed a bit random on the plate, but was a tasty surprise. Meanwhile, a tart mango sorbet was paired with a cylindrical ten flavor sorbet, which reminded me very much of semifreddo in texture.

Coconut tapioca was spread across the plate and reminded us both of rice pudding, a softer and milder flavor than some of the tartness elsewhere in the dish. Perhaps best of all was the thin ribbon of crisp sugar artfully arranged across the plate. We broke it into pieces and enjoyed it with bites of sorbet.

When you think of a restaurant at the Museum of Modern Art, this dessert is exactly what you would envision, but never imagine until it's presented before you. Although I loved the rest of the meal, I would have to say that perhaps dessert stole the show! We were both very, very impressed by Executive Pastry Chef Marc Aumont's creations.

Finally, a very heavy glass pedestal topped with additional sweet bites was presented. It included a couple chewy sour cherry amaretto cookies, banana-passion fruit gelée, and dark and white chocolates.

I was not only impressed by the meal itself and the lovely setting, but also by the exemplary service which is tantamount at all of Danny Meyer's restaurants. Our captain was extremely helpful and informative. At the start of our meal, when I asked if it would be possible to provide me with a list of all our courses (including the off-menu ones) he not only didn't hesitate, but brought over two beautifully bound, dated copies for both me and my dining companion at the conclusion of our meal.

I am so pleased to recommend The Modern to anyone dining in New York and looking for an experience that will change them. I definitely plan to return. Thanks again to the staff at The Modern for making our meal truly memorable.

The Modern
9 W 53rd Street
New York, NY 10019
(212) 333-1220
www.themodernnyc.com